Susan
The
first chapter left us in San Francisco Bay (Sausalito). We woke up one
morning after another rolly sleep to discover that we had been planted
in the same spot for three whole weeks. How did this happen? Would we be
able to get our anchor back? Maybe it had sunk to China in the mud. What
had we been doing for three weeks? Well here’s a quick run-down. We
took the computer to San Francisco on the bus to be serviced. Wayne
replaced the starting solenoid which took a couple of days what with
wrong parts and all. We did the laundry twice which was a bit of a feat
given that you have to carry all of your laundry on your back a couple
of blocks from the dinghy to the laundromat. We did a fair amount of
visiting with our boat neighbors. Some days our anchorage could have
been renamed “little Canada” for all the Canadian flags flying. We
went to a movie and rented one as well. We did a lot of grocery shopping
at one of the world’s most expensive grocery stores. Wayne also
replaced all of the fuel filters and bled the fuel lines which initiated
another maintenance nightmare when one of the bleed screws broke. Wayne
went hither and thither looking for a replacement but ended up having to
fabricate one himself. We installed the GPS’s permanent mount and this
again initiated a maintenance nightmare when our wind instruments, that
are mounted beside the GPS, quit working. As you can see we were busy
but it was still time to move on. Anywhere!
So
finally on September 19th we filled up with fuel and water at a
Sausalito marina. We did finally get our anchor back after much pulling
and cleaning and once again we thank heaven for our electric windlass.
We spent that night on a buoy, or shall I say buoys at Angel Island.
Here you are expected to tie up to two buoys, one at the front and
another at the back. Having never done this before and also having not
thought very hard about it first, made us the evening’s entertainment
for everyone else. At least no one fell overboard. We left early the
next morning for Berkeley and an hour later anchored off the Berkeley
pier which looked like a good idea at the time. Five hours later the
wind had picked up considerably and the waves had arrived making us buck
like a bronco horse. It was time to move on again. Unfortunately because
of how shallow San Francisco Bay is, there isn’t a lot of good
anchorages but there are a lot of marinas. We, of course, are too
thrifty (read cheap) to stay at marinas. We finally ended up at Treasure
Island which along with Yerba Buena Island makes up the center of the
Oakland Bay bridge. It is a wonderfully protected harbor but it is
marked as a prohibited military area on our charts. Some sailing friends
had mentioned that since the military was sizing down and shutting down
areas that they didn’t mind anymore if you wanted to anchor there. We
stayed for a couple of days and worked on the boat. Fixing our
instruments (YAHOO! We are electrical geniuses!), soundproofing the
engine room, and painting some spots on the mast.
From
Treasure Island we headed up toward the delta. This is the area off of
San Francisco Bay where the Sacramento River enters. We had heard that
it was warm there and we really wanted to go somewhere warmer. We found
what we were looking for in a place called Montezuma Slough. The trip up
was fast, as it was a run (with the wind behind) the whole way. We had
one scare with a crazed ship that didn’t seem to know where his side
of the channel was. Wayne really got a kick out of what is known here as
the “Mothball Fleet”. It is an area on the chart marked as Fleet
Reserve and it is just that, a whole fleet of ships waiting in
reserve. They are anchored in rows of 7 or 8 ships rafted together.
There must have been at least 7 rows. It was eerie to sail in amongst
them. They are huge! The Slough was great but a bit on the shallow side
especially at the entrance, but everywhere is shallow here. We’re
getting used to it. If you would have told me a couple of months ago
that I would become blasé about anchoring with only 2 or 3 feet of
water under the keel and weaving through crowded shipping lanes, I would
have thought you were insane. At least the bottom is mud and not rock.
Anyway Montezuma was wonderful. The water is mostly fresh because of the
rivers and it was HOT! We lazed about for a day in our bathing suits and
even blew up the air mattress and went for a swim. After a long day in
the sun we were rewarded with our first shower since leaving home where
you didn’t have to conserve water. We stood on the deck in our
birthday suits and had bucket showers. It was great! Unfortunately our
time here was limited and we had to head back to Sausalito to pick up
Wayne’s contacts (he had torn one). Of course, we paid for the
downhill run on the way to the Slough with a zig zagging day full of
beating on the way back. It was hard work but it was satisfying as most
people just give up and motor after the 400th tack in the narrow
channels with bridges and ships.
After
a one night stop in Sausalito for contacts, laundry and groceries we
returned to Treasure Island to prepare the boat for the trip down the
coast to San Diego. One of our preparations was to spend a whole evening
making tons and tons of lasagna to heat up along the way when we don’t
feel like cooking.
On
October 1st we headed back out under the Golden Gate Bridge bound for
Monterey. That evening we had the best whale experience yet. We were
treated to the sight of 3 humpback whales feeding not far from our boat.
It makes you a bit nervous to have something that large swimming on a
collision course with your boat but of course they didn’t swamp us or
try to eat us.